Destinations  /  The Coral Triangle  /  Papua New Guinea
Destination

Papua New Guinea

Milne Bay, Tufi, Kimbe Bay, Rabaul and Kavieng. Black sand in sheltered bays, wartime wrecks, and reefs that are among the healthiest in the region.

Season
Best Oct–Dec
Water
27–29 °C
Visibility
10–25 m
Typical depth
5–35 m
Species recorded
294 of 1316
Sites
17 named
DE-01
papua new guinea · black sand bay · fallen timber · wide
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What the diving is like

Where the term was coined, in the 1980s, by divers working the bays at the eastern end of the mainland, and still lightly dived. The muck sits on black sand and silt in sheltered bays along the north shore of Milne Bay, with river run-off, fallen timber and weed beds providing the structure, and wartime material from the 1942 fighting adding to it in places. The reef sites offshore are among the healthiest in the region and are usually dived on the same trip. Visibility swings more than anywhere else on this list, and the rivers are the reason: the country behind the bays is steep and wet, and a few days of rain in the hills change the water in the bay whatever the weather is doing at sea. The Bismarck Sea sites, further north around New Britain, are the same arrangement on a larger scale — black volcanic sand in bays under volcanic country, with reef a short distance away.

The shape of a day

Almost all of it from a liveaboard, which is how the ground is covered — the sites are spread along a long coastline with little road access and few land-based operations. Three or four dives a day plus a night dive, with the boat moving between anchorages overnight. Guides here have often been diving the same bays for twenty years and the muck knowledge is deep and largely unpublished.

Getting there

Alotau, via Port Moresby, and Port Moresby via Brisbane, Singapore or Manila. It is the longest and most expensive journey of any destination here, and the domestic leg is the part that goes wrong; a night in Port Moresby either side is a sensible booking rather than a pessimistic one.

When to come

October to December is the settled window, between the southeast trades and the northwest monsoon. Liveaboards schedule around it and there is little diving outside it.

Fees and what is not included

Reefs and the sea over them are under customary ownership, and dive fees are paid to the landowning clan for each site. This is not a park fee dressed up: it is the legal and social basis on which the diving happens, and it is why the operators ask guests not to dive sites independently.

Named sites

17 sites, described by ground and depth. What is found on each one is not published — naming the exact spot a rare animal sits on is how it gets crowded and moved on. The species recorded at this destination are listed below, and the reasoning is set out in the editorial policy.

  1. Observation Point

    Milne Bay · Boat · Black sand · 3–30 m

    A dark volcanic sand slope running out from a curving village beach on the north coast of Milne Bay, shallow at the top and continuing down to about 30 metres, with coral rubble and small isolated patch reefs set into the sand.

    Boats moor off the village. The ground is customarily owned, so a reef-use fee is paid to the landowners. Frequently dived after dark.

  2. Deacon's Reef

    Milne Bay · Boat · Coral · 5–18 m

    A coral reef on a headland beside Lauadi village, with the main structure between about 5 and 12 metres and a working maximum near 18 metres. Past that point the slope falls away rapidly into deep water.

    Small boats tie to trees on the headland while larger vessels anchor offshore. A landowner reef fee applies, as it does throughout the north coast.

  3. Dinah's Beach (Lauadi)

    Milne Bay · Boat · Black sand · 10–15 m

    Black volcanic sand and silt in front of Lauadi village, falling away from the beach at roughly 30 degrees. The sand carries coral rubble and waterlogged tree trunks washed down from the land.

    Most of the site is worked between 10 and 15 metres and the slope continues deeper without a confirmed dived limit. The village owns the ground and a fee is paid for access.

  4. Wahoo Point

    Milne Bay · Boat · Wall · 5–40 m

    A coral shelf at about 5 metres steps out to a slope at 18 metres, which then turns vertical and drops past 60 metres. The wall face is cut by small ledges.

    The point sits directly against deep water, so it can carry current. Dived by boat from the Tawali area on the north coast.

  5. Black Jack (B-17F bomber)

    Cape Vogel, Milne Bay · Boat · Wreck · 40–50 m

    A Boeing B-17F Flying Fortress bomber, serial 41-24521, ditched in July 1943 after running out of fuel. It lies essentially upright and largely complete on a sand slope just off the fringing reef, with the nose crumpled by the landing and the tail the deepest part.

    A permanent guide line runs from the reef at about 15 metres down the slope to the aircraft. Access is a two-hour open-water crossing of Collingwood Bay from Cape Nelson to Boga Boga village, weather permitting. Visibility often exceeds 40 metres.

  6. Cyclone Reef

    Tufi, Oro Province · Boat · Coral · 5–40 m

    An offshore coral seamount on the outer rim of the Tufi reef system, rising from a seabed of more than 200 metres to a reef flat about 5 metres below the surface, with a sheer wall on one side and a separate bommie alongside.

    Between 5 and 10 nautical miles offshore and exposed to swell, so it needs settled weather. Visibility offshore is generally over 30 metres.

  7. Tufi Wharf (House Reef)

    Tufi, Oro Province · Jetty · Black sand · 3–12 m

    Dark silty sand under and around the resort jetty inside the Tufi fjord, a drowned river valley enclosed by steep volcanic ridges. The bottom holds jetty piles and scattered wartime metal debris, with the slope continuing below the dived area.

    Entered directly from the jetty steps in front of the dive shop and sheltered from wind by the fjord walls. Water in the fjords is darker than offshore and run-off after rain reduces visibility further.

  8. S'Jacob

    Tufi, Oro Province · Boat · Wreck · 30–49 m

    A Dutch KPM cargo steamer of 2,839 tons and about 99 metres length, built in 1907 and hit by an aerial bomb in number three hatch on 8 March 1943. The hull lies upright on the bottom at about 49 metres with the funnel, wheelhouse, bridge machinery and propeller in place.

    Nine nautical miles off Porlock Harbour and deeper than normal recreational limits, so it is run as a short deep dive in settled weather for experienced divers only.

  9. Bradford Shoals

    Kimbe Bay, West New Britain · Boat · Coral · 20–40 m

    An isolated seamount with twin summits at about 20 metres, capped in flat plating hard coral. The sides fall away steeply into water around 2,000 metres deep on all sides.

    Offshore and unprotected, so it needs settled weather and is subject to current. Reached by boat from the Walindi area; most Kimbe Bay sites are within about an hour.

  10. Inglis Shoals

    Kimbe Bay, West New Britain · Boat · Coral · 11–40 m

    A seamount rising from very deep water to a peak at 11 to 14 metres. A narrow lip runs right around the mount at roughly 25 metres before the flanks drop away vertically.

    Exposed offshore site subject to current and dependent on calm surface conditions.

  11. Susan's Reef

    Kimbe Bay, West New Britain · Boat · Coral · 14–22 m

    A submerged coral ridge joined to a larger reef by a saddle and a shallow channel. The worked section of the ridge lies between about 14 and 22 metres.

    Within an hour by boat from Walindi. Visibility runs roughly 10 to 30 metres and drops after heavy rain because rivers off the Nakanai range put run-off into the bay.

  12. Submarine Base

    Rabaul, East New Britain · Shore · Wall · 5–40 m

    A vertical reef wall immediately off the shoreline at Tavui, dropping from a narrow reef top at about 5 metres to below 50 metres. Japanese submarines could lie alongside the wall in wartime because deep water reaches the shore, and tunnels were cut into the rock face above it.

    Entered from the shore and normally dived as a drift along the wall. Reported visibility is 25 metres or more, which is better than the harbour sites inside the caldera.

  13. Hakkai Maru

    Rabaul, East New Britain · Boat · Wreck · 25–30 m

    A Japanese support ship of about 130 metres length, sunk on 17 January 1944 by an American skip-bombing attack in the harbour at Rabaul. It sits upright in 25 to 30 metres with the stern gun still mounted.

    Inside the caldera the seabed is volcanic ash and black sand, so visibility on the harbour wrecks is markedly lower than on the outer coast. No tonnage or build year could be confirmed for this hull.

  14. Albatross Passage

    Kavieng, New Ireland · Boat · Wall · 12–30 m

    A wide tidal channel between the northern tip of New Ireland and the offshore islands. The reef is terraced into a broad semicircular amphitheatre, with an upper terrace at 10 to 12 metres, a sand plateau at about 30 metres, and further terraces stepping down below that.

    Dived on the incoming tide, when ocean water fills the passage. On the outgoing tide visibility falls sharply, and the flow reverses several times a day.

  15. Echuca Patch and the Der Yang

    Kavieng, New Ireland · Boat · Wreck · 12–34 m

    A coral ridge outside the main entrance to Kavieng harbour, rising to about 12 metres. A long-line fishing vessel, seized for illegal fishing and scuttled in 1988, lies on its starboard side on the edge of the ridge in 30 to 34 metres.

    An open ocean position just off the harbour entrance, swept by strong current, so it is normally timed to the tide.

  16. Pacific Gas

    Port Moresby · Boat · Wreck · 14–43 m

    A liquefied petroleum gas carrier, decommissioned in 1980 and scuttled in 1986 on Horseshoe Reef. It stands intact and upright on the reef slope, bow shallow at about 14 metres and stern down at about 43 metres.

    On the sunken barrier reef up to an hour by boat from Bootless Bay and regularly swept by current along the south coast.

  17. Pai II

    Port Moresby · Boat · Wreck · 25–35 m

    A steel trawler of about 30 metres, placed on the bottom as an artificial reef. It sits upright with the deck at about 25 metres and the deepest point at about 35 metres.

    Dived from Bootless Bay and often combined with the Pacific Gas on the same day.

Site names are as the operators and guides here use them. Descriptions are drafted and need correcting by someone who dives them. Tell us what is wrong and it will be corrected.

Recorded here

294 of the 1316 species in the index have a confirmed record at Papua New Guinea, ordered by how hard each is to find here.

Barrel sponge
Xestospongia testudinaria
Reef slopes and drop-offs · 10–50 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Foxface rabbitfish
Siganus vulpinus
Coral reef and slopes · 2–35 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Gorgonian sea fan
Gorgonacea
Walls and drop-offs · 10–50 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Longnose butterflyfish
Forcipiger flavissimus
Coral reef and slopes · 3–50 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Magnificent sea anemone
Heteractis magnifica
Coral reef and slopes · 3–30 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Mushroom coral
Fungiidae
Sand and rubble between coral heads · 2–30 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Pink anemonefish
Amphiprion perideraion
Sea anemones on coral reef · 3–35 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Purple anthias
Pseudanthias tuka
Reef slopes and drop-offs · 5–40 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Red lionfish
Pterois volitans
Coral reef and wrecks · 1–50 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Red-cheeked anthias
Pseudanthias huchtii
Reef slopes and drop-offs · 5–40 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Twinstripe fusilier
Pterocaesio marri
Open water over reef · 3–45 m
1 star of 5, found on most dives
Coral rabbitfish
Siganus corallinus
Coral-rich reef and slopes · 3–30 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Crescent-tail bigeye
Priacanthus hamrur
Overhangs and reef slopes · 5–50 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Redfin butterflyfish
Chaetodon lunulatus
Coral reef and slopes · 2–25 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Royal dottyback
Pictichromis paccagnellae
Coral reef and slopes · 5–50 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Skunk anemonefish
Amphiprion sandaracinos
Sea anemones on coral reef · 3–30 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Teardrop butterflyfish
Chaetodon unimaculatus
Coral reef and slopes · 3–35 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Three-spot angelfish
Apolemichthys trimaculatus
Reef slopes and drop-offs · 10–60 m
2 stars of 5, usually seen in a week
Bargibant's pygmy seahorse
Hippocampus bargibanti
Sea fans · 15–40 m
3 stars of 5, a good week should turn one up
Crinoid shrimp
Laomenes amboinensis
Feather stars · 5–30 m
3 stars of 5, a good week should turn one up
Soft coral ghost goby
Pleurosicya boldinghi
Soft corals on reef slope · 5–30 m
3 stars of 5, a good week should turn one up
Urchin clingfish
Diademichthys lineatus
Urchins on coral reef and rubble · 2–25 m
3 stars of 5, a good week should turn one up
Braun's pughead pipefish
Bulbonaricus brauni
Living stony coral heads · 3–20 m
4 stars of 5, two or three a season
Comet
Calloplesiops altivelis
Coral rubble and ledges · 5–30 m
4 stars of 5, two or three a season
Denise's pygmy seahorse
Hippocampus denise
Gorgonians · 15–40 m
4 stars of 5, two or three a season

The other 269, recorded here but not yet photographed

Every one has a page and a record at Papua New Guinea. They are listed rather than shown because nothing has been photographed or logged for them yet.

Also in The Coral Triangle

More reef fish and more coral species than anywhere else on earth, and the birthplace of muck diving: volcanic sand and silt in sheltered straits, dived slowly and close to the bottom for animals a few centimetres long. Warm all year, rarely clear, and the reason most of this index exists.

Lembeh Strait Indonesia A narrow channel of black volcanic sand between mainland Sulawesi and Lembeh island. Sheltered water, short boat rides and a high density of cryptic species. Anilao Philippines Nudibranch diversity, and the most photographed muck sites in the Philippines. Two to three hours by road from Manila. Ambon Indonesia Harbour muck, psychedelic frogfish, and rhinopias in season. Shallow and rarely crowded. Dauin & Dumaguete Philippines Shore-entry muck twenty minutes from the airport. Apo Island is a separate day trip. Bali Indonesia Black sand on four coasts, from the Tulamben shore dives to Secret Bay in the far west. The muck is spread across the island, not gathered in one bay.